Later this afternoon, I'll join a group of other hotels guests and locals for the weekly round robin at the revamped tennis center at Little Dix Bay. At the moment, however, I'm gazing out the window of my room, past seagrape and coconut palms, at the astonishingly clear turquoise waters that gently lap the beach. I'm trying to decide between snorkeling along the reef just 100 yards off shore or taking advantage of the light breeze and taking a Sunfish out for a sail. If I am somewhat slow to choose it's only because I've just come back from the spa and a "Seaside Sedation Massage," which has in fact left me stupefyingly relaxed.

Since 2003, Little Dix Bay, which like its sister property Caneel Bay was originally developed by Laurance S. Rockefeller, has undergone a transformation. It began with the construction of the spa and continued with room renovations, the addition of villas and a swimming pool, and the installation of a pro shop and fitness center at the tennis courts. Beyond that, there has been a change in attitude. "It used to be very British," a guest who's come every year for the past five told me as we sat at the Pavilion Bar. "Now it's more American. There was a time when staff would tell me to take off my baseball cap. Now you can wear shorts in the restaurant."

Overview

Secluded in its own north-facing bay, out of sight of development on the rest of the island, Little Dix feels remote. Yet "town," as defined by Spanish Town is only a mile away and accessible by cabs available at the entrance. That feeling of having totally escaped aside, Little Dix's principal asset is a sinuous, half-mile ribbon of soft sand protected by an offshore coral reef and bordered by very shallow,turquoise waters. The rooms, most slightly set back in vividly colored tropical gardens, occupy a necklace of low buildings that follow the curve of the beach, so that most accommodations are just steps from the sand. Two open-air restaurants—The Pavilion and The Sugarmill—stand to the west of the mid point, adjacent to a two-tiered swimming pool. Behind it all rise low hills covered with dryland foliage of trees and shrubs and now dotted with villas. Hiking trails lead up to low hills at either end.

Room rates include a catalog of free activities and services, among them waterskiing; snorkeling gear, lessons, and guided tours; water taxis to other beaches; use of Sunfish, sailboats, and kayaks; nightly movies; use of the fitness center; and, most important, court time, some tennis clinics, and the weekly round robin. (Inexplicably, considering how much else is free, wireless Internet access in the room costs $20/day though that's ameliorated somewhat by free computers in the activities center.) This abundance of no-cost diversions has the effect of scattering guests to the point that even when the resort is full, as it was on my last visit, it doesn't feel crowded.

Tennis Features

Pro Shop: 284-495-5555

With seven hard and artificial grass courts for 100 rooms, Little Dix has one of the better court:room ratios in the Caribbean. Like its sister property Caneel Bay (a ferry connects the two several days each week, making it easy for guests to divide their holiday between the two properties), it has a long history of being managed by Peter Burwash International. Recent upgrades added a handsome pro shop and fitness center with stone pillars, stucco walls, and a metal roof, an act seeming intended to raise the resort's tennis profile.

Tennis Staff. Hayley Bakker took over the program in June of 2007. A native of Melbourne, Australia, she later played for Augusta State University in Georgia and Lamar University in Texas. She joined PBI immediately after graduating in 2006 and worked at properties in the U.S. and Mexico before coming to the British Virgin Islands and her first assignment as tennis director. She's excited by the challenge. "I changed the clinics to more in the morning because I think guests want to go to the beach and do other things in the afternoon," she told me. She also added aerobic tennis one day a week, finding it provides an easy tool to recruit guests using the cardio equipment in the fitness center. "I let them know you don't have to know how to play tennis and then I liven it up with some great Caribbean music."
Tennis Programs. Like anyone new to a position, Bakker is feeling her way toward what works with her clientele. At the moment that's three midweek clinics (including a free one for beginners), that aerobic tennis, and a round robin. Locals turn out for the weekly round robin and provide a small base to draw on for game matching if other hotel guests aren't available. There is a ball machine available for use without charge, and the pro shop also supplies free demo racquets and even tennis balls (which can be expensive in the Caribbean; they're otherwise $6-$8 in the pro shop).
Courts & Fees. Seven courts—three artificial grass and four hard (two of the latter slated for resurfacing), two with lights—arrayed singly or in pairs to either side of the pro shop and fitness center. Shingle-roofed gazebos provide courtside shade and there are water jugs in shingled enclosures like tiny houses. Court fees: None.

Your Call

Here's what others have had to say about Rosewood Little Dix Bay.

• "Beautiful setting and well-maintained courts. There are six in all, and when we visited, we never had a problem getting a court. Took a lesson with the pro--she was helpful without being overbearing. Nice pro shop. They provided balls to play with and also had raquets to loan, which we didn't need."—G.G., Int., May 2008

• "wonderful place, very relaxed yet upscale. The tennis pro was wonderful and patient!"—H.M., Beg., April 2008

• ""—A.S., Int., April 2008

• "The pro, Hayley Bakker was a delight. She was upbeat, enthusiastic and lessons were fun as well as helpful. She made some quick adjustemnts to my game without overwhelming me with too many things to worry about. The courts are great and there is a nice doubles round-robin match with quests and some permanent residents each week."—J.B., Adv. Int., March 2008

• "The resort has beautiful, new courts. The resident pro, Hayley Bakker, is extremely pleasant and enthusiastic and good at using a mix of teaching aids to provide different perspectives on deficiencies. She develops a personal plan for progression aimed at improvement during even a short stay."—M.H., Beg., February 2008

• "Strengths: Beautiful resort, excellent dining, great new fitnees facility. Tennis with Hayley Bakker was instructive and fun. Hayley is knowledgeable and enthusiastic. Looking forward to another visit.
  Weakness: Hayley could use some assistance at times. She is the only Pro and her schedule gets booked up fast. Call or e-mail in advance to ensure the appointments you want."—C.H., Int., February 2008

• "Hayley Bakker is an excellent instructor; she immediately spotted several things for me to work on and made a substantial difference in my game in a week't time. One of the best (most patient!) instructors I've ever come across."—C.M., Int., January 2008

• ""—T.S., Adv. Int., December 2007

• "I really enjoyed the tennis at Little Dix. New pro, Hayley Bakker, is a great instructor. I did several clinics and a private lesson with her. She offers a special rate for first lessons when you use the new outstanding fitness center. I came home with a much better net game because of her help. Her Burwash tennis instruction makes learning easy and fun!"—S.F., Adv. Int., September 2007

Other Recreation

Beach. The beach at Little Dix extends for half a mile. Bohios, or thatched umbrellas, shade pairs of cushioned lounge chairs along the entire length of the beach and are free for guests to use. The sand to the east of the dock has a softer consistency than the sand to the west, which has more tiny fragments of shell. The waters along all of it are very shallow and remarkably warm. In addition, guests can request a free shuttle to any of nearly a dozen other beaches—The Baths of Virgin Gorda the most famous among them—located elsewhere along the west coast of Virgin Gorda or on such nearby islands as Great Dog and George Dog.

Spa & Fitness Center. The Spa sits atop a ridge at the western end of the beach. Before and after treatments you can lounge around a terraced pool with views across the water of other islands, the quiet of the secluded setting only broken by the sound of the sea washing the shore below and the birds in the trees overhead. Treatments take place not in rooms but in nine tiny huts scattered among lush tropical foliage and illuminated by the natural light that pours in through windows in doors that open onto a private outdoor patio. The spa also stages yoga classes. The Fitness Center shares a building with the tennis pro shop. Its dozen cardio machines face outward through windows overlooking the courts while in between stand half a dozen Precor exercise stations.

And ... Watersports abound, including snorkeling, sailing, kayaking, waterskiing. Hiking trails lead up into the hills. And on various days there are guided garden tours, hands-on exhibits by a reef expert, local conch and coconut jewelry demonstrations, and more.

Children's Programs

Kids have their own Children's Grove, adjacent to the tennis courts, where 3-12 year olds having a changing menu of activities, mostly indoors, from 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday. There's also a room for older kids with board games and a computer.

Lodging

Options range from garden rooms to three-bedroom villas. Built in clusters of two or four rooms in one or two-story shingle-roofed stucco-and-stone structures, these tend to be elegantly simple, with tile floors, red cedar doors and trim, teak, rattan and wicker furnishings. Some have both tubs and indoor and outdoor showers. All have Bose Wave DC players and air conditioning; none but the villas have televisions. Most are within sight of or a short stroll from the beach with the exception of the hillside villas (which come with a golf cart).

Restaurants

Since my visit, Little Dix has brought in a new talent to oversee its restaurants: noted Chef Marcel Driessen and Food and Beverage Director Stephane Duvacher. Both have extraordinary world-wide experience. According to the press release, they intend to create a distinctive Euro-Caribbean culinary style at the resort's three restaurants: the fine-dining waterview Sugar Mill, the open-air Pavilion beneath conically shaped shingle-roofed Polynesian pyramids, and the oceanside Beach Grill adjacent to the dock and watersports center. The new menus choices reflect the direction they're heading: Duck Confit & Pecan Beurreck, served with Marinated Mango with Balsamic Essence; Anegada Lobster Ratatouille with Organic Tomato and Chilled Herb Mousseline; and Pan-Fried Local Red Snapper with Maple Syrup-Soy Sauce and Leek Cannelloni. New menus, wine and rum tastings, and cooking demonstrations are among the enhancements in the works. Meal plans are an option.

See Also

For comparison's sake, also check out these resorts which also have beaches and spas:

• Four Seasons Resort Hualalai, Hawaii
• Four Season Resort Nevis, Nevis, West Indies
• Le Saint Géran Hotel, Mauritius
• Four Seasons Resort, Punta Mita, Mexico

Travel Essentials

Seasons. Year-round.

Rosewood Little Dix Bay
P.O. Box 70
Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands
284-495-5555
Toll-free: 888-767-3966
Fax: 284-495-5661
Web Link: Rosewood Little Dix Bay

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Book Online: Rosewood Little Dix Bay

 

Travel Instructions. From North America, most flights are likely to be routed through San Juan, Puerto Rico and then on to Terrence B. Lettsome Airport (EIS) on Tortola, where ferry service is available directly to Little Dix Bay. American Eagle, Liat, and Cape Air all have service from San Juan to Tortola. Alternatively, you can fly to St. Thomas and board a ferry there. Limited service is also available directly to the airport on Virgin Gorda. The BVI Tourist Board web site (see below) can provide details, as well as information about access from other parts of the world.

General Tourist Information. Travel to the British Virgin Island requires a valid passport. The local currency is the $US; voltage is also the North American standard 110 volta. They do, however, drive on the left. For general information about travel to these islands, visit the British Virgin Islands Tourist Board web site or contact one of their offices. There's one at 1270 Broadway, Suite 705, New York, NY 10001; phone 212-696-0400, toll-free 800-835-8530, or fax 212-949-8254. See the BVI web site for other locations, including those in Europe.

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